GRUB: Betel, NYC — interpretive Thai with a coconut obsession.

GRUB 411:
  • BETEL (pronounced “beetle”): 51 Grove Street (btwn Bleecker & 7th Ave), 212-352-0460
  • TYPE:  Trendy Interpretive Thai
  • PRICE:  $$$½
  • QUICKVIEW:  It’s like a loose interpretation of Thai food that tried to get dressed up all fancy-like…but at the end of the day, it’s just an INTERPRETATION of Thai food.  Inauthentic and oddly infused with coconut.
  • SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥♥ / ♥♥♥♥♥
FULL REVIEW:
The quality of a meal should have nothing to do with the price of it.
Over-priced food is a personal pet peeve of mine.  I’ll take Flavor over Frills ANY day.  Upon walking into Betel, it was significantly more trendy than how I’m used to eating my Thai Food.  Some of my initial impressions:
  • “wow…LOTS of pretty people here.”
  • “Wait, isn’t that Toni Colette? Yes, it is.”
  • “Is this a tapas restaurant? Sure looks that way from the decor.”
I have to admit, I was skeptical.  But I kept an open mind.  The food wasn’t inedible, but at the same time, it wasn’t a life-altering experience.

The waitress was very friendly and helpful.  Apparently there’s a Betel methodology of menu ordering — it’s designed to be family style and shared.  For a party of 2:

  • 3-4 appetizers
  • a salad to “cleanse the palate”
  • 1 entrée to share

I think Thai food offers such a beautiful range of flavors in its cuisine, and often it’s the combination of these flavors in a single dish that makes this one of my favorite genres of food to eat.  It’s that tangy + sweet + spicy + herby combo that is so wonderful to experience in Thai food.
Unfortunately, Betel didn’t deliver that.  Maybe it was the dishes we ordered, but it seemed like the same flavors kept regurgitating on our plates: deep spicy, toasted garlic slivers, coconut, coconut, coconut and MORE coconut.  (don’t get me wrong, I love me some coconut, but it can be very overpowering in some dishes)
The presentation and plating were beautiful.  But again, Flavor over Frills.
The drink menu was longer than the actual dinner menu (3 pages!). And the restaurant — while very chic-fully decorated — was SO LOUD.  Unlike other “modern” Thai restaurants, there was no trance/world music thumping, but the acoustics in the space somehow exacerbated the volume of everyone’s voices.
I spent the entire evening was spent shouting, “WHAT?! What did you say?”  I dunno — call me an Old Lady, but I like going to dinner with friends and being able to have a conversation with them.
Also, I think lighting is SO instrumental in a good dining experience.  I appreciate “ambience”, but I DO like being able to see what I’m eating.  Betel was a little too dimly lit to appreciate (or discern) what exactly was on your plate.
Between the noise level and the low lights, I might as well have been deaf & blind, eating my trendy interpretive Thai food.
Here’s the menu:

Here’s a plate-by-plate of our meal:
BEVERAGES:

  • BLACKBERRY PASSIONFRUIT CAIPIROSKA: 42 below Passionfruit Vodka, lime, blackberries, palm sugar. I read on Yelp that their drinks were disappointing, but I actually thought the opposite — it may have been the best part of the meal. This was delicious — fruity, but not overly sweet. SEOULDIVA SAYS:♥ / 

  • THE GINGER MANUKA: Evan Williams Bourbon, 42 below Manuka honey, ginger syrup, lime, ginger ale. This was really delicious & fresh.  The honey flavor was very prominent, and the ginger was not overpowering. But it did feel like ”Isn’t this a cough drop” flavor for me… SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

APPETIZERS:

  • VEGETARIAN BETEL LEAF w/ caramelized coconut, lemongrass mint & peanuts. There were 2 versions of the Betel Leaf app on the menu and we opted for the vegetarian one, since our other selections were so meat-heavy.  I was underwhelmed.  Refreshing? YES.  Rabbit food?  DEFINITELY.  It felt like I was stuck on the Island of LOST, and I was foraging for food, and this is all I could come up with. NOTICE: the caramelized coconut. SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

  • GRILLED BO LA LAT with Vietnamese mint & red nahm jim. I didn’t know what this dish was, but the waitress said something about “ground marinated beef” so we ordered!  The beef was tasty — marinated in a sweet-soy flavor.  The entire dish was actually very reminiscent of Korean ssam, where you take the piece of kalbi (also sweet-soy marinated beef), put it in a red lettuce leaf with some sauce and shove it in your mouth.  Be warned – the dipping sauce is no joke. MUY PICANTE. SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

  • SCALLOP & CILANTRO DUMPLINGS w/ garlic chives and chili oil. Two things about this dish:  1) When I see an ampersand between two ingredients before the word “dumpling” it implies that both those are ingredients are INSIDE the dumpling.  Is it just me? Wasn’t expecting the cilantro to be sprigs strewn on top as garnish.  2) There’s no such thing as an “al dente” dumpling, but when the skin is SO soft that it crumbles, that means over-cooked.  no one likes a limp dumpling. Overall this was underwhelming. The scallop stuffing didn’t have much flavor and it came swimming in a non-descript, watered-down pool of soy. SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

SALAD:

  • POACHED CHICKEN AND CRAB SALAD w/ coconut, cherry tomatoes and green nahm jimm dressing. This came to our table and did not look appetizing — didn’t taste much better either.  First off – the poaching of the meats rendered them devoid of any flavor.  I have NO idea what the “dressing” was — whatever that white mess was, it made the entire salad look like slaw.  PLEASE NOTE: the coconut. Unfortunately, all I could taste was the damn coconut. SEOULDIVA SAYS: Ο / 

ENTRÉES:

  • JUNGLE CURRY OF SNAPPER w/ baby corn, spring onion, snake bean and fried garlic. I wish they had offered those little chili pepper icons on the menu, next to the dishes to denote which were spicy — this one shoulda had 3 chili peppers next to it.  I absolutely adore spicy food, but I don’t like it when it’s SO spicy that you can’t taste any other flavors in the dish.  While this dish wasn’t that bad, it was dangerously close.  I didn’t understand the baby corn (but then again, I never do), and the snapper was mediocre.  It was all heat, with no substance supporting it.  A little more salt would have been welcome. SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

  • CARAMELIZED BRAISED BEEF RIB w/ cilantro chili shallot & nahm plah prik. A picture’s worth a thousand words, ain’t it? I didn’t know it at the time, but look at that HUGE bubble of fat in the middle of that photo!  Now, as a meat-loving Korean, I love me some beef rib.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t as tender and fall-off-the-bone as I normally prefer.  Nor was it well-seasoned.  Without the dipping sauce (which tasted vinegar-based), there was just a whisper of marinade.  I also found the meat extremely fatty. SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

DESSERTS:

  • BETEL’S ICE CREAM AND SORBET:  First scoop was red bean, second scoop mango…third scoop some sort of sugarless citrus.  Truthfully, all the flavors tasted watered down. NOTE: Yes, that’s coconut sprinkled across the entire dish.  SEOULDIVA SAYS: ♥ / 

  • STEAMED CARAMELIZED DUCK EGG CUSTARD w/ star anise and cassia bark ice cream. I guess I was expecting an actual custard.  Perhaps something flan-like, with some inventive caramel top.  Instead, we got brown molasses-like substance in a bowl that just tasted like dark syrup.  SOOOOO sweet — inedible.  It was marginally more tolerable if you took a spoonful of the ice cream (which, might I add — had COCONUT shavings AGAIN) and dipped it into the “custard”, but it was still WAY too sweet to withstand more than one bite.  I have no idea where the alleged “duck egg” was…all I got was a bowl of syrup. SEOULDIVA SAYS: Ο / 

10 thoughts on “GRUB: Betel, NYC — interpretive Thai with a coconut obsession.

  1. I looked like you had a extremely horrible meal. I will make a note never to step foot into that restaurant. The food really looked unappealing.

  2. Hey Donna, I thought also looking at the photo’s on your blog were not the most good looking dishes, But i meet a friend there on Thursday night & OMG the food was awesome.. A fresh difference & a sexy restaurant. Sorry don’t agree with your review. Maybe go back with an open mind..

  3. I have to say, I know food taste is totally personal but this review is just so way off. So far off that I’m upset that someone might google Betel and not go because of this terrible review. The food at Betel is succulent. That hung lae curry makes my dreams swirly. The beef rib is so beyond the silly hearts you applied to it. The meat falls off the bone and the salty sauce makes my mouth long for a cocktail and another bite. And just as a blogger and social media lover, the fact that you praised the Ginger drink only to later cut it down with a cough drop comment seems so stupidly catty. You’re affecting people’s sales with your loose comments. Be succinct. Don’t jeopardize the success of a new business just so you can sound witty. I don’t mean to be rude but this review was in no way in line with the reality of Betel’s delicious menu.

  4. Hey Dusty, I appreciate your comments and respect your opinion. I’ve had friends tell me they’ve also enjoyed Betel, but unfortunately my experience was exactly as I recounted. While I do wish them well (and I have suggested to friends that they try it and see if they like it) one of the beautiful things about social media is that everyone is within their rights to be forthcoming about their opinions.
    I can completely respect that you had a different experience at Betel than I did. In fact, many people have. As I mentioned to Tom, Sripraphai is more along my speed of “delicious” Thai food. And just as I respect your rave review, I think we just may have to agree to disagree on Betel.
    Cheers, HP

  5. Hey Dusty,
    Thanks for the comments – I’m also for the little guys too (my parents have their own business as well).
    I noticed you’re a fellow Astorian! Where are your fave place to eat in A-town??
    xx,
    hp

  6. The service is terrible and it’s a hole in the wall, but go to BZ Grill for the greek fries. They’re ridiculous. Check out Martha’s Country bakery for the Oreo cupcakes (but make sure they’re fresh. I’ve had dry ones from time to time.)
    Go to il Bambino for all the crostinis and for this one salad. I can’t remember it off the top of my head but the cheese is shredded so finely that it looks like hair. Salty. Oily. Awesome.
    Go to BareBurger for the lunch special and try any of their alternatively meat-ed burgers. The lamb and the ostrich are good choices. They have beer too!
    Go to The Astoria Brewhouse (formerly known as Indigo) and get the Cobb salad.
    That’s all I can think of, right now.

  7. Amazing!! I live right by BZ Grill. Haven’t tried any of the places you recommended yet, but will def check it out. Bareburger always has a ridiculous line whenever I walk by, but it must be for a good reason.
    Ever been to Seva for Indian? I’m a huge fan.
    Thx for the recos!

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